Café Boulud
January 30, 2016
Upper East Side, New York City
Chef & Owner Daniel Boulud
Executive Chef Aaron Bludorn
Executive Pastry Chef Ashley Brauze
General Manager Cherif Mbodji
Maitre'd Jason Ferretti
Head Sommelier Edouard Bourgeois
Sommelier Cole Parry
Accolades:
-1 Michelin Star
-3 Stars, New York Times
-Relais & Chateaux
-James Beard Outstanding Restauranteur
-James Beard Outstanding Chef
-James Beard Best Chef, NYC
-Gayot, Top 10 US Hotel Restaurants
Review:
Just a few blocks north of Daniel, Star Chef & Restauranteur Daniel Boulud's flagship, is its sister restaurant, Cafe Boulud. Located inside The Surrey Hotel, Cafe Boulud holds 3 Stars from the New York Times as well as 1 Michelin Star. With Executive Chef Aaron Bludorn manning the kitchen, it's no wonder this is the case. Aaron's rise to his position was no small feat. He is an example of a Chef who rose in the ranks at Cafe Boulud since his arrival in 2009, working his way up the ladder to eventually take over the position of Executive Chef after the departure of Gavin Kayser who left to open his own restaurant in Minnesota.
At my first trip to Cafe Boulud last night, Aaron and the entire staff were firing on all cylinders. The evening began with a very nice greeting from Maitre'd Jason Ferretti. With our coats checked, my dining companion and I followed Jason to a very nice table for two situated with a perfect view of the entire restaurant. I really liked the subtle elegance of Cafe Boulud. The restaurant was fancy without at all being stuffy. Just like Daniel, we were first presented with a cocktail list and wines by the glass. As I mentioned in my review of Daniel just a few weeks ago, I really enjoy when a restaurant takes it one step at a time and first gives you the drink menu before later giving you the dinner menu. When both are presented together it sometimes feels overwhelming, as if the restaurant wants to rush your decisions. Not the case at Cafe Boulud. After enjoying my cocktail for a bit along with a nice Amuse Bouche of a Butternut Squash and Parmesan Honey Crisp, our server presented our dinner menus. He explained the format which was actually quite unique. The menu is all a la carte and is categorized by themes consisting of "Classics & Country Cooking," "Winter Flavors," "Farmer's Market," and finally "Indian Cuisine." Our server began to read each dish on the menu to us and explained them thoroughly. This was a nice gesture although it was a little much to read the entire menu to us. I would have preferred to have read it myself and then ask my questions later. But this was of course, no big deal. Before placing my order I decided to speak with Cafe Boulud's Head Sommelier, Edouard Bourgeois. Having heard great things, I decided to put myself in his hands and elected to do "Reserve" Wine Pairings. After then making our food selections, we were ready for what we knew would be a memorable evening at Cafe Boulud.
Shortly after ordering, Edouard returned with a really nice bottle of champagne to pair with a surprise course that Aaron would be sending out. The champagne was a Bénédicte & Stéphane Tissot which I am familiar with, having had their Chardonnay a few months back at Per Se. Our server then arrived with a complimentary course of Smoked Sturgeon à l'Oseille which paired spectacularly with the Blanc de Blancs champagne. The Sturgeon was prepared with sorrel créme fraîche, a tiny buckwheat crepe, salsify and finished with a dollop of hackleback caviar. The flavors combined very well to create an excellent dish.
Next up was my first course which was new to the menu. Seared Foie Gras which sat on top of a piping hot donut filled with tonka bean and sweet potato. This was my favorite dish of the night. I loved the dessert-like flavors accompanying the savory lobe of foie gras. The dish was made even better by a fantastic pairing of a 1998 Château Guiraud Sauternes. Having had a Château Guiraud a few times now, I have to say they make a hell of a Sauternes and it only gets better with age.
For my next course I chose one of Cafe Boulud's most popular dishes, the Seared Duck Breast. It was served with beets, yogurt, roasted fennel and pistachios, and finished with sauce au poivre. The duck was cooked to a perfect medium rare, leaving the meat tender but still having the skin be nice and crisp. The wine pairing for this course was a Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon from Austrailia. It was such a unique wine with quite a different flavor profile than a Napa Cabernet. I really enjoyed it and it paired very well with the duck.
Having finished our entrees and being allowed some time to enjoy the rest of my wine, we received a surprise visit from Chef Aaron Bludorn. It was a very nice gesture for him to leave the pass and come out to see how we were enjoying the meal. After our conversation with Aaron, we decided to add a cheese course to our dinner before having dessert. Shortly after, Edouard came over with two different wines. A lovely Pulginy-Montrachet white Burgundy and a fantastic 1990 Volnay-Santenots red Burgundy which was opened with the Coravin system. This was truly a special wine and my favorite of the night along with the Sauternes. Soon after, our server returned with a nice assortment of domestic and international cheeses that were presented beautifully on a wooden plank and served alongside toasted house baked bread and seasonal accoutrements. A very nice addition to the meal.
With the meal moving at a perfect pace, the Maitre'd, Jason came over to tell us that the Pastry Chef had something in mind for us and asked if we wouldn't mind them proceeding without us looking at the dessert menu. We were all for it. Soon after, a dessert called "Milk & Cookies" arrived. I was very happy that the Pastry Sous Chef, Orlando (covering for Ashley Brauze who is out of town), chose this for my complimentary dessert. The Milk & Cookies was really a fabulously presented dessert and consisted of dulce, gianduja, manjari ganache, and a unique reduced milk sorbet. Each of these flavors complimented the other and had just the right amount of sweetness.
After finishing dessert we were told that Aaron would like us to come back and see the kitchen. I, of course was all for that. I always enjoy a kitchen tour to end a special meal and see where all the magic goes down. I thanked both Aaron and Orlando for a wonderful meal and we were then led out to a table in the adjacent Bar Pleiades for some complimentary Amaro and Espresso. This was an extremely nice and unexpected gesture by Cafe Boulud to conclude a truly fantastic meal.
All aspects of my dinner at Cafe Boulud were perfect and it will absolutely be a restaurant I return to. Not only that, but I can say with ease that this restaurant deserves far more recognition and actually should be talked about with some of the top restaurants in NYC.
3.5 Stars.
⭐️ Good
⭐️⭐️ Very Good
⭐️⭐️⭐️ Excellent
⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️⭐️ World Class
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