Although the debate regarding where to find New York’s best Slice will never end it was a much simpler time when Pasquale Lanceri opened Patsy’s Pizza in East Harlem, the then-Italian neighborhood since labeled “Spanish Harlem” but his iconic Pizzeria still standing and serving what many consider a destination-worthy Pie plus several Red Sauce classics.

Opened 1933 in the coal-oven tradition of Lombardi’s, the Pizzeria where Lanceri is said to have learned his trade, the original Patsy’s is located at 2287 1st Avenue and although current owner Frank Brija has expanded the brand across New York most connoisseurs agree there is no comparison between the others and what aged oven can produce.

Minimally changed over the course of eighty-five years, a coat of paint plus perhaps some additional photos added over the years, it is upon entry that guests are greeted by servers sporting accents that almost seem put-on, the cash-only policy prominent on doors and menus though lower-than-average prices can easily see most guests sated for less than $15 including tax and tip.

Divided across two rooms plus the kitchen, each long and narrow but brimming with history, it is from chilled cases that all Beverages save for Water are produced and although table Bread is apparently offered at dinner there was no evidence of such at noon.   

Adding a few daily specials to the Italian-American menu, though only one other table had ordered anything but Pizza, it was no more than fifteen minutes after seating that a large Pie arrived with Cheese, Sauce and sliced Meatballs, the ingredient quality certainly not that of newer artisanal joints but char prominent across the bottom and Crust capable of standing up to a fold despite being crisp and cracker thin from edge to center.

Surprised to see a light-eating 11 year old ask for a second Slice, though the novelty of “New York Pizza” in New York certainly factors into the experience, it was with only one wedge remaining that two additional plates arrived, the Potato Croquettes finding favor amongst all whether solo or dipped in Tomato Sauce while Penne alla Vodka was a touch overcooked but otherwise enjoyable and more boozy than many for just $10.95.

Most of my favorite pizzas come from conventional gas deck ovens, so I rarely get sentimental about wood-fired or "brick oven" or even coal-fired ovens. Inside Patsy's Pizzeria, East Harlem. It's true, however, that all of my coal-oven pizzeria experiences have been good ones. If you're going to the trouble of operating a coal oven, I suppose, you're going to be serious about making good pie.